Visita di tre cantine nei Castelli Romani – Parte I
Vero, forse la zona non sarà rinomata come l’area del Chianti in Toscana, o la Valpolicella in Veneto, tantomeno come le Langhe piemontesi; sarà anche vero che forse io sono di parte, ma posso assicurare che sottovalutare il fascino dei Castelli Romani per quanto riguarda l’offerta di vino di qualità sarebbe un grave errore.
A livello di denominazioni, contiene due delle tre DOCG della regione (Cannellino di Frascati e Frascati Superiore) e le DOC Castelli Romani, Colli Albani, Colli Lanuvini, Frascati, Montecompatri Colonna, Roma e Velletri (7 delle 27 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata laziali). Parliamo quindi di un territorio molto nutrito, fonte di molte denominazioni e quindi casa di tantissime realtà vitivinicole che ogni giorno, tutti i giorni, si impegnano per offrire al mercato dei prodotti che possano rendere orgogliosi i “Castellani”. Va anche sottolineato che, in parte, il passato della zona agisce quasi come un’arma a doppio taglio. D’altronde, con la Città Eterna a pochi chilometri di distanza, la richiesta di vino è sempre stata molto alta, ma richiedere una grande quantità ha spinto alcune aziende a preoccuparsi maggiormente delle quote richieste piuttosto che della bontà del prodotto. Fortunatamente, molti hanno sempre preferito il contrario, spingendo così molte altre realtà a prediligere la qualità delle bottiglie.
In questo primo articolo vorrei includere tre importanti realtà vitivinicole del territorio che ho avuto il piacere di visitare in prima persona.
TENUTA DI FIORANO (CIAMPINO)
Non me ne voglia la Tenuta, che anche su Google Maps viene allocata all’interno del Comune di Roma (su Via di Fioranello 19, a ridosso dell’Appia Antica), ma data la pressoché vicinanza all’ingresso dell’Aeroporto di Ciampino, mi permetto di spostarla al Comune limitrofo. A questa cantina sono particolarmente legato, sia per la vicinanza a casa mia, sia perché la visita in loco è stata l’ultima prima che scoppiasse la bomba internazionale che la pandemia del Covid-19 rappresenta.
La storia della cantina è legata al Principe Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi, il quale a metà del secolo scorso si appassionò incondizionatamente alla produzione vinicola e scelse di piantare come uve Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot e Sémillon, tre vitigni internazionali che all’epoca in pochi (ma veramente pochi) in tutto il territorio nazionale adoperavano, per cui nella zona dei Castelli Romani rappresentava davvero una novità incredibile – in particolar modo il Sémillon, un vitigno a bacca bianca che solo negli ultimi anni ha trovato una maggiore diffusione in Italia.
Due amicizie importanti che contrassegnarono il percorso produttivo della Tenuta fu quella del Principe Alberico con Tancredi Biondi Santi e Luigi Veronelli. Dal 1999 poi, ad occuparsi dell’azienda furono il cugino Paolo Boncompagni Ludovisi e suo figlio Alessandro, il quale fin dal primo momento cominciò a seguire la parte agronomica, sempre affiancato dalla guida di Alberico. Oggi la Tenuta è proprietà del Principe Alessandrojacopo Boncompagni Ludovisi, che “ricevette” come diktat da seguire non appena entrò in gioco l’utilizzo di Grechetto e Viognier come vitigni a bacca bianca, il blend che ancora oggi compone i due vini bianchi dell’azienda.
Cosa contraddistingue il territorio su cui sorge l’azienda? Un terreno composto in particolare da pozzolana (materiale piroclastico emesso dal vulcano nella fase esplosiva, ovvero ceneri modificate nel tempo) e dai sedimenti di polvere di eruzione, una caratteristica dovuta al Vulcano Laziale che conferisce quel quid in più ai vini dei Castelli lavorati con cura. Il sistema di allevamento è a controspalliera, mentre il buon drenaggio favorito dal terreno permette ai vini una singolare capacità di invecchiamento – una caratteristica che io apprezzo molto nei vini.
I vigneti della Tenuta di Fiorano si estendono su un terreno composto prevalentemente dalla pozzolana e dai sedimenti di polveri di eruzione riversati dal vicinissimo Vulcano laziale. Sono terreni di buon drenaggio che conferiscono alle uve e ai vini che producono, spiccate capacità a lunghi invecchiamenti. I vitigni sono stati impiantati con un’esposizione Sud ovest/Nord est che consente alle viti di ricevere una perfetta illuminazione durante l’intero arco della giornata. I venti che soffiano dal vicino mare e dalle colline dei Castelli Romani contribuiscono a mantenere l’integrità e la sanità delle uve impiantate con un sistema di allevamento a controspalliera.
Ovviamente tutte queste preziose informazioni non sono farina del mio sacco, bensì frutto degli scrupolosi appunti che presi nell’ottobre del 2019 al Park Hotel Villa Grazioli, sede della delegazione AIS Castelli Romani, dove il nostro delegato Fabrizio Gulini presentò, insieme allo stesso Principe Alessandrojacopo, la Tenuta nei minimi particolari.
Una produzione annua di 35.000 bottiglie suddivise nelle quattro tipologie di vini creati dall’azienda: due bianchi e due rossi. Con i bianchi l’uvaggio è lo stesso, per l’appunto Grechetto e Viognier; la principale differenza risiede nella vinificazione e nell’affinamento, ovvero acciaio per il “Fioranello Bianco” e botti di rovere di Slavonia per il “Fiorano Bianco“. Per i due rossi invece, il “Fioranello Rosso” (Cabernet Sauvignon 100%) prevede una vinficazione in acciaio, seguito da un affinamento in botti di rovere per 12 mesi, mentre il “Fiorano Rosso” (insieme al Fiorano Bianco il prodotto più prestigioso della Tenuta, fatto per due terzi con Cabernet Sauvignon e un terzo con Merlot) fa addirittura un affinamento di 30 mesi in botti e almeno 24 in bottiglia. Rubo letteralmente la definizione di Fabrizio, definendo questi vini dei “Super Latium“, data l’analogia dei rossi fatti con uve bordolesi con i rinomati “Super Tuscan” di Bolgheri.
Ci tengo a sottolineare che, sebbene non fosse previsto, per una sebbene malaugurata circostanza, avemmo l’opportunità di svolgere la degustazione direttamente col Principe Alessandrojacopo in persona, il che per me rappresenta sempre un fattore speciale, ovvero interfacciarsi in prima persona con il proprietario. Spero che, con le mie parole, sono riuscito a descrivere in modo più o meno sufficiente l’azienda, una vera e propria eccellenza del nostro territorio. Chiosa finale molto doverosa, ma che preferivo non fosse necessaria fare: ahimé, a pochi passi dall’azienda e sulla stessa via, si trova un fac-simile della Tenuta, che si chiama Fattoria di Fiorano. QUELLA NON È LA VERA TENUTA DI FIORANO.
ESPERIENZA IN AZIENDA: Visita in cantina, dei vigneti e degustazione delle 4 etichette accompagnate da un assaggio di prodotti aziendali (olio e miele della Tenuta), formaggio e salume locali, per un minimo di 4 persone.
COSTO: €35 (*prezzo al tempo dell’avvenuta esperienza, ovvero Febbraio 2020)
SITO WEB: https://tenutadifiorano.it/
CANTINA DE SANCTIS (FRASCATI)
Se Tenuta di Fiorano fu l’ultima visita in cantina pre-pandemia, quella presso la Cantina De Sanctis fu invece la prima dall’inizio dell’incubo. Non so se sia stato un caso o in linea con la giornata (era il giorno di San Valentino), ma sta di fatto che la visita da De Sanctis riuscimmo a farla di domenica. Questo fattore è molto importante, dato che la maggior parte delle cantine che ho “analizzato” per organizzare una visita purtroppo restano aperte esclusivamente nei giorni feriali. Solo in pochi sono aperti anche il sabato (solo la mattina), ma ad oggi non ho ancora trovato nessuno che sia aperto di domenica, quindi un grande applauso e “grazie” all’azienda per aver permesso la visita in una giornata così importante.
Ma passiamo all’esperienza nella visita – dove tra l’altro potete guardare il mio video recap in questo link – avvenuta per l’appunto durante una domenica di metà febbraio. Come spiegato da De Sanctis stessa, la cantina si trova nell’area del antichissimo lago Regillo, a circa 15km di distanza da Roma, composta da vigneti che comprendono l’autoctona Malvasia Puntinata, il Bombino, la Malvasia di Candia ed il Trebbiano Toscano come vitigni a bacca bianca, mentre per quanto concerne le uve rosse troviamo il celebre Cabernet Franc; il tutto lavorato “con i metodi dell’agricoltura biologica, rispettando i cicli della natura”.
Luigi De Sanctis, vignaiolo d’altri tempi e delegato del Lazio per la Federazione Italiana Vignaioli Indipendenti, è una persona tanto attenta alla qualità del prodotto quanto alla salvaguardia dell’ambiente. Nel sito web della cantina sarà possibile infatti trovare una sezione dedicata esclusivamente alla spiegazione della sua filiera corta, ideata proprio per minimizzare quanto più possibile l’inquinamento ambientale.
Si inizia con la raccolta dell’uva (rigorosamente a mano) e con il suo posizionamento in cassette alimentari senza sfregamenti e rotture degli acini, per essere tutto trasferito subito in cantina. La seconda fase prevede il riempimento delle presse atraverso un nastro elevatore, a cui segue una pressatura soffice (a temperatura controllata) e senza ossigeno, per poi trasferire i mosti “nei serbatoi, in acciaio inox AISI 316 dotati di tasche di raffredamento per il controllo della temperatura comandati da frigorifero e relativo quadro elettronico controllo temperature”. Si prosegue poi con la chiarifica tramite decantazione statica a freddo o flottazione (una pratica atta ad illimpidire il mosto e separare i residui di buccia e materiale peptidico nel liquido, n.d.a.), poi con l’inoculo di lieviti selezionati e attivazione di fermentazione naturale. Quando questa fase si conclude, si passa all’affinamento in acciaio, poi alle ultime chiarifiche ed infine all’imbottigliamento, previo sciacquatura e sterilizzazione delle bottiglie attraverso vapore a 100°.
Passiamo ora alla parte più divertente: la degustazione. Per rinfrescare la gola, Luigi (che ci ha condotto personalmente presso la visita nei vigneti ed in bottaia) ci porta nella sala degustazione, dove ad attenderci ci sono tre dei sei vini , il tutto accompagnato da un piatto generoso di porchetta, salumi, formaggi, pane, grissini e olive nere.
Iniziamo con un vino che, al naso, mi ha colpito come raramente mi è capitato in precedenza nel Lazio: il “496” 2020, un Frascati DOC – che non va quindi confuso con la DOCG del Frascati Superiore. L’uvaggio di questa DOC può comprendere Malvasia Bianca di Candia e/o Malvasia Puntinata per un minimo del 70%, integrabili poi con Bellone, Bombino Bianco, Greco Bianco, Trebbiano Toscano e Trebbiano Giallo. Inoltre la DOC prevede anche una versione spumante. Il “496”, vino bianco fermo biologico che è composto al 90% da Malvasia di Candia ed il restante 10% da Trebbiano Toscano, si presenta con un bouquet aromatico incredibilmente affascinante, elegante e soprattutto intenso: frutta e fiori come se non ci fosse un domani, come mela golden, ginestra e fieno. Anche al gusto, però, la bottiglia si difende egregiamente, con una delicata sapidità, una nota amaricante di mandorla ma soprattutto una lieve mineralità che spinge a procedere con gusto ad un altro sorso. Nella mia più modesta opinione, qualora cercaste un vino da aperitivo che non sia effervescente, il “496” può venirvi in soccorso in modo superlativo.
Proseguiamo poi con “Onde” 2020, un rosato ricavato dal Cabernet Franc in purezza. Ora, che rimanga fra noi, sui rosati sono sempre un po’ pignolo: sono pochi quelli che mi colpiscono davvero e che mi spingono all’acquisto. Quello di De Sanctis è sicuramente un prodotto piacevole, leggero e non invasivo, dove (per il mio gusto personale) il naso ha trionfato sul gusto: sentori di amarene, fragole, tiglio, cipria e una leggera nota balsamica. Al gusto risulta fresco e delicato, ma con poca persistenza. Credo che, con il giusto abbinamento, potrebbe risultare molto più piacevole (mi riferisco sempre al mio gusto personale, n.d.a.) di quanto non abbia fatto durante la degustazione. Non so bene perché, ma mi ispira un piatto di carne bianca (pollo o tacchino, magari).
Dal rosato poi si passa alla vera natura del Cabernet Franc, ovvero vino rosso fermo: “Iuno” 2019, che se non erro fa un affinamento in barrique di 5 mesi. Abbastanza strutturato, “vellutato”, con una persistenza spiccata, non eccessivamente tannico a dispetto della giovane età, aromatico al punto giusto con note speziate e di sottobosco. Onestamente parlando, credo che accompagnerebbe egregiamente (magari con 3 o 4 anni di più sulle spalle) qualunque genere di cacciagione.
ESPERIENZA IN AZIENDA: Visita guidata dei vigneti, della cantina e della bottaia per poi passare alla degustazione di 3 calici in abbinamento ad un tagliere.
COSTO: €25 a persona, oppure €20 in caso si scegliesse la degustazione senza abbinamenti (*prezzo al tempo dell’avvenuta esperienza, ovvero Febbraio 2021)
SITO WEB: http://www.frascati-wine.com/
CASTEL DE PAOLIS (GROTTAFERRATA)
Alle porte di Grottaferrata, la Città del Libro, è possibile trovare un’altra importante realtà del territorio dei Castelli Romani, ovvero l’Azienda Agricola Castel de Paolis, una cantina nata nel 1985. Grazie alla sua altitudine (270 metri sopra il livello del mare), al clima mite e alla vicinanza con il mare, l’azienda può vantare delle condizioni pedoclimatiche particolarmente favorevoli per la realizzazione di prodotti d’alta qualità.
P.S.: se volete vedere la mia esperienza presso l’azienda, potete guardarla qui.
Il tutto nacque come idea dell’On. Giulio Santarelli, precedentemente Sindaco di Marino, presidente della Regione Lazio e sottosegretario di stato al Ministero dell’Agricoltura e Foreste, il quale coinvolse nel suo ambizioso progetto un luminare del mondo vinicolo quale il prof. Attilio Scienza. Tale sinergia ha fatto sì che l’azienda, in modo del tutto pionieristico, attuasse una strategia di sperimentazione che vide nei suoi primi 7 anni di vita la scelta di piantare più di 20 vitigni diversi, sia a bacca bianca che rossa, autoctoni ed internazionali: Moscato Rosa (probabilmente l’unica nel Lazio e tra le poche al di fuori del Trentino Alto Adige ed il Friuli Venezia Giulia), Malvasia Puntinata, Bellone, Syrah, Cesanese, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, Sangiovese, Trebbiano Giallo, Chardonnay, Passerina, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Moscato Giallo, Incrocio Manzoni, Viognier, Semillon, Roussanne, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Grenache, Tempranillo ed Alicante. Va sottolineata anche la scelta posta sul numero dei ceppi per ettaro, portati a 5500, con un carico produttivo ridotto ad un chilo / un chilo e mezzo per ceppo, e l’introduzione della pratica del diradamento per i rossi, abolendo qualunque forma di concimazione, l’applicazione del regolamento CEE 2078/92 di conversione biologica.
La conduzione della cantina è affidata all’enologo Fabrizio Bono, mentre a guidare l’azienda oggi è Fabrizio Santarelli. Per quanto riguarda le etichette dei vini invece, a realizzare questi capolavori fu Umberto Mastroianni, artista di origine laziale e zio di Marcello Mastroianni. Durante la visita in azienda, lo stesso Fabrizio ci ha raccontato come inizialmente Umberto non fosse pienamente convinto da questo progetto, dato che al tempo non era prassi comune per gli artisti prestare la loro vena artistica alla creazione di etichette per bottiglie di vino. Tuttavia, in Francia (Ça va sans dire…) era tradizione soprattutto per alcune importanti realtà della zona di Bordeaux creare sodalizi con importanti artisti che riuscissero a dare ancora più prestigio alle loro pregiate etichette. Basti pensare, per esempio, allo Château Mouton Rothschild: fu proprio il Barone Philippe de Rothschild ad avere l’idea di decorare l’etichetta di ogni annata ad un artista diverso – come l’annata 1973 a Pablo Picasso. Proprio questo illustre precedente bordolese spinse l’artista nato a Fontana Liri ad unirsi artisticamente a Castel de Paolis.
Passiamo adesso alla degustazione, che ha previsto tre vini e qualche accompagnamento – formaggio, salame, porchetta, pane e ciambelline dolci. Il primo ad essere servito è stato il Frascati Superiore DOCG 2019 dell’azienda (il mio consiglio, quando si visita una cantina dei Castelli, è quello di assaggiare sempre il loro Frascati perché è il punto di riferimento della zona, n.d.a.). L’assemblaggio del vino prevede Malvasia Puntinata, Trebbiano Giallo, Bellone e Bombino, ma ciò che tengo a sottolineare di questo vino è il prestigioso riconoscimento ottenuto; non da una singola guida, bensì dai punteggi aggregati. La rivista “Gentleman” infatti ha deciso di sommare i punteggi di 6 importantissime guide di vini, ovvero “Vitae” dell’Associazione Italiana Sommelier, “Vini d’Italia” del Gambero Rosso, “I Vini di Veronelli“,”Bibenda” della Fondazione Italiana Sommelier, la “Guida essenziale ai vini d’Italia” di Daniele Cernilli e “l’Annuario dei migliori vini italiani” di Luca Maroni. Ebbene, il Frascati Superiore DOCG di Castel de Paolis si è piazzato al 15° posto tra i migliori bianchi d’Italia: un risultato davvero superlativo.
Il secondo vino degustato invece, questa volta dall’annata 2014, è stato “I Quattro Mori“, un vino rosso prodotto con uve internazionali quali Petit Verdot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon e Merlot. Questo vino, dopo una fermentazione in acciaio della durata di circa 15/18 giorni, effettua un affinamento in barrique di Troncais e Allier. A conclusione della batteria di degustazione invece abbiamo avuto il “Rosathea“, un Moscato Rosa in purezza che risulta veramente atipico per la regione. Come specificato prima, parliamo di un vitigno che vede la sua quasi totalità di origine nel Trentino Alto Adige, con sporadiche eccezioni in regioni limitrofe come il Friuli Venezia Giulia. Anche se non abbiamo avuto modo di assaggiarlo in loco, un vino famoso dell’azienda che consiglio vivamente di assaggiare è il loro “Muffa Nobile“, un vino bianco dolce botritizzato che, se sono correttamente informato, vede come blend Semillon, Moscato Giallo e Sauvignon Blanc. Ebbi l’opportunità di assaggiarlo durante un seminario tenuto dalla delegazione Roma dell’AIS e ricordo con piacere questo nettare dorato: davvero una prelibatezza, soprattutto considerando il fatto che la difficile gestione della Botrytis Cinerea avviene a pochi passi da Roma.
ESPERIENZA IN AZIENDA: Visita guidata dei vigneti, della cantina e della bottaia per poi passare alla degustazione di 3 calici in abbinamento a dei prodotti locali.
COSTO: €35 a persona per l’opzione scelta da noi, altrimenti sono disponibili un’opzione da €15 e una da €25 (*prezzo al tempo dell’avvenuta esperienza, ovvero Maggio 2021)
SITO WEB: http://www.casteldepaolis.com/home/
Appena sarà possibile, cercherò di visitare e raggruppare altre cantine del territorio dei Castelli Romani per poterle poi raccontare e condividere con tutti voi. Ad oggi, avete visitato una di queste tre cantine?
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